On Health In Mexico By George L. Pauk, MD |
We arose at 4:00 AM and entered the sturdy pick-up truck. The health care evaluation team, four doctors, two nurses, a public health staff person, one student from the US and courageous women leaders from Enlace Civil sped into the cold dark of Chiapas. The general advice of "Never drive after dark" in Mexico must be ignored these days if we are to reach the remote EZLN villages and pass some of the many hassles of the Immigration and Army stops along the way before they open in the mid-morning.
Perhaps the first sign of discord in this environment was seen in meeting the large trucks hauling loads of sections of giant ancient trees. Then a view of huge lots filled with piles of the skeletons of the jungle forest. Whose land was being cleared?
| “Most of us were novices who had to be convinced that a "low intensity war" was a real thing. We were educated by the experience of our days in Chiapas.” |
Four hours of hard driving through the crisp dawn was like a dream. Our skilled driver was so filled with enthusiasm and empathy for her people that by comparison we were truly impartial observers. We approached the checkpoints with apprehension. Each of us retained some reserve of the confidence that comes with being a US citizen. "Only following orders," was the commander’s reason for the recording of our passport and visa information. His soldiers surrounded us, stood ready with their weapons, and snapped numerous photos of all of us. We began to realize the much more significant impact of the immigration and military inspections, record taking and photographing could have on our courageous accompanists. We would leave the country in a few days, but will remain apprehensive for their safety in the days after our departure.
We were really tourists. None of us had met before. A varied group, our interests, education and careers were in liberal arts, science and health. Just as some tourist groups focus on some narrow aspect of culture, we continue our career interests by visiting the health care sites of the Indigenous People of Chiapas. We were interested, but certainly not experts, in understanding the psychopathology of warfare. No one in our group had been to War College or the School of the Americas for training to understand modern military strategy. Most of us were novices who had to be convinced that a "low intensity war" was a real thing. We were educated by the experience of our days in Chiapas. We learned at least some small measures of the feelings of fear, intimidation, anger and misunderstanding that accompany the threat of present war.
We descend into their long, beautiful valley. The Zapatista villages we see are small, open, places preceded by signs that read, "No alcohol or drugs allowed." People walk the road, hope for rides, but their main thoroughfare is under the cover of the forest that covers the peaks on each side of the road. There are no roads to countless encampments of displaced people in these hills and mountains. Someone asked about a road building program to improve the health care access to these new villages. The irony of warfare and fear was an obvious answer. A road to each site of hidden humanity would be convenient for them—and the army.
We ask for information and are invited to sit on the ground by the small stream under a grand fig tree. Children play in the water and people carry water up the hill. The health promoters give us excellent long speeches. They are very serious about their mission to detail for us their extensive knowledge of health care and plans for supplies they don’t have. This center of Zapatista life is building a new hospital and clinic. The people do not trust the government hospital, fearing the excessive interrogation and record keeping there.
The new Zapatista hospital is being built well back from the road. It is surrounded by trees and has its back against the steep wall of the dense jungle mountainside. The location reflects the need sick people and their families feel for nearness to natural beauty, privacy and security. One can envision clients coming and going on paths under the cover of the forest. The people and local workers take obvious pride in the new, modern facility, which will be a challenge to finish and supply. These courageous people are building their community and welcoming health care initiatives. This new hospital with its operating rooms and modern design is a gift from one of the many European sources that dominate the good works of Central America. European nations are counteracting US military and low intensity war support with the presence of observers and by funding the building of hospitals where the people are located.
We viewed the facilities and asked many questions. They answered us with direct, full and appropriate detail. The promotoras and promotores were well versed in health care with a public health viewpoint. They emphasized their lack of supplies and need for continued training, but they also included proper emphasis on basic issues such as sanitation and nutrition. We took note of the veracity of the deficiencies of their inventories.
We traveled further on through the valley and hills where the resistance fighters and their displaced supporters hide. Another wider and hard packed road passed by large military facilities and then abruptly into a large deserted village. Empty homes with deteriorated spots in the roofs and overgrown vines stretched out of sight before us. Memories of stories of "pacified villages" in the history of United States’ actions abroad and the displacement of American Indians from their North American lands jumped to our minds. Even more amazing was the large, two story, gleaming white, 22-bed government hospital and clinic sitting in grand isolation in this ghost town. During our short visit we counted thirty visible staff, but there was only one patient.
On the road back to San Cristobal de Las Casas we wondered at the strangeness and waste of the hospital. We also had to pull over for convoys of Humvies, manned machine guns on top of trucks, and transports packed with grim soldiers. This is a war. We resolved that we must do our best to make the situation clear in the US and change our nation’s policies. Our ambassador must not downplay the existence and significance of the war. We must stop supplying the weapons and our military specialists must stop teaching this special type of warfare.
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
